Xanthi Blogs » Walkera 22e Basics

Walkera 22e Basics: General Check-up in steps

Chris — Wed, 14 Nov 2007 18:36:00 -0500

General Check-up in steps by peter_larsen:

I had 50+ flights on my first stock motor before I had any problems with it.. Since you've replaced the stock head the first thing you need to do is make sure the heli is mechanically setup before even trying to spin the rotor up. This means checking everything is straight, no binding, swash is leveled, servoarms are 90deg at mid throttle, zero pitch at mid stick, gear mesh (main and tail) and so on.. If one or more of these things are not setup properly the heli won't fly or it will fly badly..

If you disconnet both motors and set the PLT and PIT knobs to 12 o'clock and center all the trims except the throttle trim (should be all the way down) and set the throttle to mid stick.. Then check your servo arms to see if they are close to or are 90deg to the servo, if not this needs to be fixed.. Adjust the arms to get as close to 90deg to the servo as possible trying to keep all three at roughly the same angle..

Next you need to level the swash and make sure the antirotation pin is centered in the antirotation bracket.. When this is done, look at the blade grips from the side and make sure the flybar is level, you should now have 0deg or close to 0deg pitch at mid stick.. If not then you need to fix this as well.. Loosen the blue "T-Block" and slide it up or down within the grove in the main shaft to get 0deg pitch if possible, if still not at 0deg you need to adjust the lenght of the push rods going from the swash to the mixer arms.. Lengthening them will move the blade towards negative pitch and shortening them will move the blade towards positive pitch..

When all this is done fine tuning can be done with the PLT and PIT knobs.. Use the PIT knob to fine tune the pitch at mid stick and the PLT knob to set how much pitch travel you need/want..

Finally, push the throttle stick forward to see if the swash is moving down and the pitch goes positive.. After these steps if the motors still burns out you might suspect a faulty 4-in-1..

Walkera 22e Basics: Attention Beginners! Very IMPORTANT POST!

Chris — Tue, 28 Aug 2007 20:22:00 -0400

First of all welcome to the community of the 22e pilots!

I HIGHLY recommend that you carefully take Radd's tutorial at [www.dream-models.com]

This is VERY important. You should not attempt to throttle-up the helicopter before you start attending Radd's school.

Radd helps you develop a technique that will make you hover after just three days. Just follow Radd's directions CLOSELY.

That's all!

Walkera 22e Basics: Replacing Servos? (Part 2)

Chris — Thu, 17 May 2007 23:13:00 -0400

Here is some more information about servo replacing:
Tower Pro SG-90 : PERFECTLY SAME

24/6/2007, by JD:

Oh, and let me tell you something I just found out. people talk about servo's and speed or quality, my cheap servos work well in a hover and under control. But when you loose it or are going fast and apply some control input like forward when you going backward, the added stresses cause the load to stop the heli from reacting because the servo is not strong enough. So, as you get better you will find that yes, at hover you have good control and then you loose that control when you speed up. Its the strength of the servos.

I have to be very careful with my helis with the stock servos, they don't react when you need it most. Just something to think about if you ever go to get servo's. The Hitec ball bearing 56's are great on my shoguns but the align servo's on my TREX are sluggish. On the walkera 22's I would buy the Hittec 50's. And yes I have a set, but I have not put them on yet. But I will.

2/12/2006, E_Heli:

Futaba S3110 servo fits right in, the price is couple bucks more than the blue one but very good quality and torque. The only down side is the arm travel in the opposite direction and you have to fool around in the radio setting.

Other info I've collected about servo alternatives for the 22e:

Tower Pro SG-90 : Mods have to be done...

Blue Bird BMS-306 and BMS-306BB (ball bearing) : they might require some modification of the servo holders.
Hitec HS-50 or HS-55 which is stronger but also a bit bigger so some mods to the servo holders may be needed.. Otherwise this is a very good servo bought by many heli flyers..

The Hs-55's from Hitec fit well with VERY little modding to be done.....you just need to shave off a tiny bit of the searvo holders , and they slip right in..
God Bless the Dremel company!!

Walkera 22e Basics: Setting the knobs on top of the Transmitter

Chris — Fri, 13 Apr 2007 03:23:00 -0400

Posted by JD:

"Simply put the right knob sets where you lift off like, 1/3, mid or 2/3 throttle stick input. The left stick sets how much the pitch changes as you move the throttle stick.

I like to set the right knob where my heli is just about to lift at mid stick and one more click lifts it.

the left knob adjusts how smooth you lift and come back down.

I always suggest unplugging the motors and turning on the heli and spin each of the knobs left and then right looking at throttle off, mid throttle and full throttle for each of the four settings leaving the knob your not testing at 12:00 (straight up). Then you will see what they do. So you would limit the travel with the left knob if you are jumping up to fast. Anyway start at straight up on both. Then set your lift off point then adjust the left knob, to make the heli go up and down smoothly (normally should be between 10 O'clock and 2 O'clock.

JD"

Walkera 22e Basics: Replacing Servos?

Chris — Mon, 09 Apr 2007 12:47:00 -0400

Posted by NY_Rebel:

"If you replace servos with other than the stock servo there are a few things you should know.
1. Keep all three servos the same (same brand and part #). The reason for this is, servos of different makes and/or part #'s move at different rates and since collective moves all three servos in unison, any difference in movement will drastically affect the flight characteristics.
2. Almost all the servos on the market move in the opposite direction from the stock servo.

Now, if you go with other than stock walkera servos there are two ways this can be fixed.
One way is to disassemble the servo and change the wires on the pot. This is described in detail elsewhere in this thread. Do a thread search and you should be able to find it. You only need to do this on the elevator servo, since the aileron servos can be manipulated to move either direction...

To accomplish servo movement reversing without fear of decimating your brand new servos...simply swap sides on the aileron servos mounting position (move the wires on the Rx is easier if servos are already in holder).
The elevator servo is also easy to manipulate, reverse the position of the servo mount on the main frame, mount the servo with it's shaft on the opposite side and then flip the #1 dip on the Tx to get the correct directional movement. See pic below that shows new servo mount orintation.

You may find some of the info in this thread beneficial when reversing the servos by changing their mount orintation. Post #2 has info about servos. [www.rcuniverse.com] "

Walkera 22e Basics: Cyclics & Pitch

Chris — Mon, 09 Apr 2007 12:44:00 -0400

Posted by JD:

"Cyclic Controls - Those controls which affect the helicopter's attitude in two directions namely rolling left and right (known as the aileron control) and moving the nose up and down (known as the elevator control). Confusingly, on an aeroplane, the elevator is said to control the 'pitch' of the aircraft. For this reason, with model helicopters we simply refer to the elevator so that it is not confused with the pitch of the main rotor blades

Pitch - More correctly called Collective Pitch, with helicopters this normally refers to the angle of the main rotor blades. Positive pitch creates lift. (Negative pitch creates lift if you are flying upside down.)

The glossary of terms is in TREX Tuning.

JD"

Walkera 22e Basics: Balancing blades

Chris — Wed, 28 Feb 2007 21:40:00 -0500

Balancing your heli's blades document collection.

By E_Heli:

"Here's some links:

[www.myhelicopters.com]
[www.rc-airplane-world.com]
http://www.trextuning.com/bladebalancing.php"

Download the file and rename to balancing.pdf
http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/thumbnails/257221/Yv66057.jpg

Walkera 22e Basics: Pitch kicks in suddenly while throttling up?

Chris — Wed, 28 Feb 2007 21:39:00 -0500

By JD and Atzanik:

If pitch comes in suddenly:

Checklist:
Also if you hold it in your hand over your head and you slide the throttle up and down do you see all three servos moving up and down? One of your servos may be dead or dying.
Are your blades Tracked?
Do you have both silver pins in your Aluminum T block?

Is the set screw on the Tblock in the flat spot on the main shaft and is it at the top of the flat spot?
Is the brass retainer on the Tblock all the way tight?
When you grap the blade holders like a cork screw handle and pull up and down on the head, is there movement, does it slide up and down? There should be no movement. The main gear should not move up and down.

JD
__________________________

Then, Atzanik said:

Other than what JD already mentioned, check your blade pitch. If everything that JD mentioned checks okay, it's either your pitch or head speed (due to either motor or battery power), or a combination of both.
___________________________

Then, JD added:

All I can think of if what you say is true, that your TX/RX are giving the wrong commands , is to check that all the dip switches are in the original positions and then and if they were then open the radio up and make sure all the connctions are soldered on good. when pulling back on the stick of course the two rear servos move down and the front one should move up twice the amount of the rear ones so you maintain the same pitch. I guess in both scenarios - full forward and full backward. You level the fly bar and measure or look at the pitch and that is how you know it is changeing.

JD

Walkera 22e Basics: Lipos and Tail motor

Chris — Wed, 28 Feb 2007 21:39:00 -0500

Under Construction...

Walkera 22e Basics: Brushless Main motor upgrade

Chris — Wed, 28 Feb 2007 21:37:00 -0500

I have the walkera brushless upgrade kit (motor and esc) and stock tail motor, with 1250mah 10C battery. It works fine! Just one burnt motor after 7 months of flying (with breaks. Sorry I can't provide flight number.). Please note I usually let the motors rest every 4-6 minutes. Dual heatsinks and thermal paste used on tail motor.

Chris M.

Walkera 22e Basics: FAQ

Chris — Wed, 28 Feb 2007 21:36:00 -0500

1. What is a BEC?
BEC stands for "battery eliminator circuit" and is built/added onto 95% of the speed controllers out there. (by NY Rebel)

Walkera 22e Basics: Walkera 22e Basics

Chris — Wed, 28 Feb 2007 20:44:00 -0500

After reading and posting in the thread named "RE: Walkera 22E Lets Talk", in rcuniverse.com, I decided all the important info should be gathered and separated from the chat we were doing.

So this blog is an effort to concentrate the most important posts from that thread.

Any expression like "the forum" in this blog refers to that thread.